“between the debased and the devine” reads the last line of the introduction of Cooco’s den in its menu card. Most of us know about this amazing place, many including PsycheD and oream have even written on it but I still feel that this place deserves another post.
Located in lahore’s famous red light area, heera mundi (diamond district), this restaurant was the brain child of Iqbal Hussain, a painter, art teacher and the son of a dancer who worked this area in the past.
When psyched had mentioned this place on her blog, it had piqued my curiosity. I really wanted to see what/where this place was. I called her up to ask about it, and was kind enough to warn me going without a booking was not a good idea before giving me a number to call. If you’re reading this girl.. I owe you one!
Before leaving, we were asked by the hotel management to return early from there, as it was ‘not a good area’. As expected, we heard his advice in one ear, n promptly forgot it.
I met my friend at the restaurant after a hair raising ride in a rickshaw. Hair raising because i dont drive that safe myself, otherwise it was downright terrifying! Normal on the streets of lahore they tell me *shudder*
Thanks to informing early, we got a table right on top of the place, which was also pretty much exclusive (love u PsycheD!!!). we got a sprawling view of the shahi masjid and the qilla gate. However, there was one problem.. Due to recent rains, the lights were off! But we didn’t let that dampen our moods. A little on the restaurant itself, it houses a gallery on the ground floor, containing works of the owner.
He has tried to (n been successful) capture the essence of life in the district during his childhood. The pictures all feature women in different settings, some ready to work, some in provocative poses, and some just doing what women do, hanging out and talking. The gallery also has antiques from the same time i believe, and the combination does bring about a magical effect, transforming you back to a time when this was their world, and either you were a paying customer or unwelcome. (taking in the gallery after having food does the wonders, looking at it on an empty stomach will not do the trick). The architecture of the haveli in which the restaurant is built also adds credence to the image conjured up from the gallery. Heavily influenced by Hinduism, with gods and goddesses present, the place merges other religions such as Christianity, Sikh and Islam as well. (Click on the picture or here to view more images of Cooco’s Gallery)
We had tawa chicken, mutton handi and daal for dinner. It was, in one word, delicious!! Overate till i almost burst (didn’t cuz the food finished first)! Amazing!
We were just about to leave, when found out there was a surprise in store for us. Just a little before midnight, one by one, the lights all around the place came on!! It was breathtaking!! i just sat there, mesmerized in the beauty of the sight before me! that, combined with the soft love music serving as the background made the whole experience complete! We finally moved from there closer to one (after arriving at nine thirty).
The night was made complete with a late night stroll along the old city taking in the sights and sounds of the place before finally catching a ride back home at three am.
First Image Courtesy: PsycheD
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